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Le Manoir - France




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Le Manoir Raynaudes, France
By Mark and Anne Templeman

Last September we had a wonderful holiday in the Tarn area of SW France, and thought we would share our experience with you.

Orlando Murrin and Peter Steggall found and started to renovate the Manoir in the village of Raynaudes about three years ago, and last year opened with three chambres d'hôte and four self contained gîtes.    Meals are offered to guests on six nights of the week - three gourmet dinners and three more informal terrace suppers.

Orlando, who is Editorial Director of the BBC Good Food and Olive magazines, is head chef and also takes care of the wonderful garden which provides most of the fruit and vegetables used for the meals as well as flowers for the house.   Virtually everything we ate was hand made by Orlando - from the bread at breakfast to the after dinner chocolates.   Peter is "front of house" and also takes care of wine and cheese.    Each evening meal commences with an aperitif - somewhere!!   I say somewhere because Peter varies the venue - in the Orangery, the lounge, on the terrace or even on occasion in the woods!   All the wines offered are local Gaillac wines, 80% of which are red or rosé and rarely if ever available in this country - so another plus!

Our first evening we had a terrace supper starting with Kir Royal in the Orangery, accompanied by spiced nuts, where we met our fellow guests.   We were also introduced to the wine we would be drinking with our meal, which on this occasion was a white, Château de Saurs made with the Mauzac grape, with a medium clean taste and a fruity red which was delicious - Cave de Tècou Confidences 2001, the cépage for which was Braucol, also known as Fer Servadou.    Orlando then joined us to introduce us to our menu for the evening.

We moved to a long table set out in the open sided barn and laid for just eight guests - the maximum catered for each evening, thereby creating the impression of a private dinner party which in fact is exactly what it was!   Homemade savoury brioche, light as a feather, was passed round which accompanied salad of chicory, apple, walnuts and Roquefort cheese dressed with walnut oil.    The main course was a "pistolet" of veal - rump of veal simply roasted with no herbs or dressing, but accompanied by an intense sauce of girolle mushrooms and Dauphinoise potatoes made this time with whole baby Belle de Fontenay potatoes.   The wine continued to flow...............!   Dessert was a galette of apple and blackberry served with crème frache - apparently tarts cooked in a tin are out this year folks and we should be making these delicious and loosely formed gallettes with puff pastry - I've tried since I returned, and must confess I need a little more practice!   We had a light dessert wine, again Cave de Tècou, this time called Evocation.   Peter offered us the last of his homemade Limoncello liqueur to taste which we had to share out very carefully - there was very little left and as it tasted so delicious there was a danger that it wouldn't circulate fully round the table!   At one point grappa was also circulating..........as the reader can imagine it was an evening to remember and a splendid introduction to our holiday - the balmy weather, our great fellow guests, the wonderful food and drink and not least our lovely hosts who joined in and were such excellent company. Could life get any better than this we wondered...........well actually, yes it could!

Dinner the following evening followed a similar pattern, but this time we started with a tasting of white wines followed by a vote on the one we preferred to have with our dinner.   We tasted the Château de Saurs, a Domaine de Labarthe plus a white wine from Michel Issaly which had been decanted because due to a "technical hitch" was very slightly fizzy.   The majority chose the Chtâteau de Saurs, which left Anne with the Domaine de Labarthe to herself as that was her wine of choice - same grape, Mauzac, as the Château de Saurs but with a drier citrus flavour.   With the courgette harvest at its peak whilst we were there, to accompany our tasting we had some bruchetta spread with a mixture of courgette, cheese and chives.

Supper commenced with a ratatouille containing three different types of courgette - green, yellow and striped; three different types of aubergine, white, striped and purple; red and yellow peppers, tomato, onion and a little basil - all from the garden.   Following the vegetarian theme we moved on to a galette layered with tomato, cantal cheese, onion and basil served with a green salad.   The red wine also served with dinner was the Confidences we had drunk the previous evening.   To round off the meal we had a homemade melon gelato served with almond biscotti.

I think it was around this time we thought we might have died and gone to heaven!!

On our final evening at Le Manoir we had a gourmet meal on the terrace, which was very special.   Kir Royal was served, but Anne opted for straight bubbly - as God made it according to Peter, which is a nice way of putting the fact that she thinks Cassis is an unnecessary addition!

Our starter was a salad of roasted pêches de vigne, L'Ecir en Aubrac cheese and hazelnuts.   The peaches are a speciality of the area and have deep red flesh.   The main course was a perfect roast fillet of Charolais beef with a sauce Bèarnaise, accompanied by a gratin of potatoes and sage.   The wine we chose to accompany this was Domaine de la Ramaye - Le Grand Tertre, which was decanted and served at a perfect temperature; 50% Braucol and 50% Prunelard grapes.   This was followed by a salad and then cheese - three types, cow, goat and sheep!   Dessert was Earl Grey pot à la crème and walnut biscotti - in honour of two of the guests who hailed from Newcastle upon Tyne, the home of Earl Grey of tea fame!   Dessert wine Evocation was served.   Finally, for those with the strength left, there was coffee and homemade mendiants (slim discs of chocolate topped with dried fruits, nuts and crystallised violets).

Do you want to hear about breakfast served each morning?    Trust me it was equally wonderful - fresh fruit salad of figs, raspberries, banana, strawberries, nectarines and orange, homemade brioche, banana bread, croissants, yogurt and jams.

By now you probably have an idea of the welcome, the company and the standard of food we enjoyed, and for ambience and gastronomic experience it would take some beating.   We hope you have enjoyed hearing about Le Manoir.

Anne & Mark Templeman

September 2005